...or the great pork tour of 2016.
The Dotytron and I celebrated 15 years of jungle love this year. 15 years is not nothing. It's kind of a big deal. We've been through a thing or two, and we wanted to celebrate in some grand, fiscally irresponsible fashion. Originally the plan was New Orleans, for a extra-long weekend bacchanalia of jazz and beignets and crawfish and brass bands. Then the Dotytron stumbled upon the 10 year anniversary of Rupture, a promotion company in London that's been pushing the breakbeat heavy sound that we love, that I really pushed when me and C64 were in the promoting game, that has been my heart and home. For their 10 year anniversary they put together what can only be described as a "punishing" line up (very technical term). So we did what any other jungle-crazed ex-ravers would do, we looked at each other and calculated the costs, and the time difference, and the fact that with the Dotytron's work schedule we'd only be able to spare like, 3 days in jolly old England, and the ridiculous exchange rate, and we said, "F**K IT, IT'S ABOUT TO GO DOWN." And we did it.
The logistics of leaving all three at home were not triflin'. They were something else. We drew up a master schedule, we booked our caregiver to come in on the weekends, we set up contingencies and play dates and made food so it was all ready to go. We sent emails, we left health cards, and even still, I was a ball of stress and nerves leading up to it. A neighbour asked me before we left if I was excited and I was just like, "I'm too freaked out that something is going to go horribly wrong. I don't think I'm going to be excited until I get back to Toronto and find out that nothing happened." (This turned out to be a bald-faced lie, since outside of a quick hello Facetime video shortly after arrival, I didn't worry/think about them once). The wonderful grandmas (one of whom is effectively deaf and the other one who has major joint issues) conducted themselves admirably and we owe them the world.
We left on a Thursday night red eye. Arriving at 9am the next day. Now, I don't know if you lot know this about the Dotytron, but he is a terrible traveler. His comfort zone consists of a razor thin slice of equilibrium - he can't sleep on planes, he gets sick, he's tall and awkward and uncomfortable. It wasn't looking good for him, because even despite duping our family doctor into giving him a prescription for sleeping pills, they didn't do squat. I on the other hand, am an exemplary travel. Being used to functioning at a high level on little sleep is a point in my favor.
On arrival.
Our crash pad.
We dropped our bags, showered, and then hit Borough Market for a roast pork, applesauce, and crackling sandwich, and a sausage, arugula (sorry, rocket), and stilton sandwich. The Dotytron also had one of the best cups of coffee of his young life at Monmouth coffee. It's coffee where people wait in line for about 25 minutes for a cup.
Then we did something we've never done before...we split up. Usually, we're glued to each other, but he wanted to meet up with some Toronto crew to go record shopping, and I would've rather eat a bag of barf than follow around a bunch of DJs on a crate-digging expedition, so I went to the Tate Modern.
I **think** that's St. Paul's Cathedral, but we are always the worst tourists in the world, so I can't be sure. Pretty picture though, right?
I hoofed it to Ottolenghi Spitalfields and picked up a bunch of goodies to tide us over the next day when we knew we'd be crunked.
After a long, luxurious, deep nap made all the sweeter by the subconscious awareness that there was no way I'd be woken by a little body climbing into bed and kicking me in the head, we posse'd up and headed to the venue, which was conveniently located about 100m from our apartment. Good planning, us, good planning. I have to be honest, I slept so deeply that I almost didn't want to go to the party. It was also hectic because the promoter's had promised the Toronto contingent (about 8 people made the trip to London for the party, including our two buddies who were DJing) paid guestlist tickets available at the door. Anticipation for the show was so intense (people were selling counterfeits??! For a rave?!) that the promoters told us to line up by 10pm, or else they'd hit capacity. It was kind of annoying (like seriously, you're not going to prioritize the people who you promised tickets and who crossed an ocean to be here?), and it was kind of fraught, but we got in around 10pm.



Skanna - aka the love of my life
Ummm...what is there to say about this party, except that it was LIFE AFFIRMING. I felt like I was home, in a very real way. Among my tribe of people (aka weirdo junglists). The party was oversold like crazy...three sweaty, grimey rooms PACKED with a throbbing mass of people...one of those parties where you can't even dance because it's just a constant rotating shift of people squeezing by. Was I uncomfortably skin-to-skin with some white dreads at some point? Yes. Was I thoroughly grossed out by the tacky feeling of their sweat-slicked bodies against mine? YES. Was I worried that one wrong step and I would be trampled? YES. Did I get hit on? Yes (still got it, Lagerfeld). Eventually, in the main room, during what was billed as the "Alliance of Science" set (Equinox, BKey, and some other shacker) I was dancing up on top of some benches lining the main room. This sound...this breakbeat heavy choppage...this tsunami of thunderous, sequenced, programmed amens, this chest-rattling bass...nothing does it for me like that. I never get to hear it. I never get to be surrounded by people who love this sound like I do and will brock out. I never get to be around my people.
The thing is...people still CARE about jungle in the UK. There's still a scene...and not just that, but a bit of a revival going on. People were calling out "Insiiiide" and shouting "boh" for rewinds and I was like YES YES YES, A THOUSAND TIMES YES! Dotytron of course came back all fired up to rebuild the scene here but we all know that Toronto is a provincial backwater...a tertiary, staid, conservative town and if it wasn't the case that almost everyone I love in the world was here, I wouldn't stay. I was like, you're almost better off saving the money you'd spend bringing Equinox here to play to 100 people (MAX), and going to London once a year for a weekend of Rupture.
It was beyond magical. I danced from about 10pm-5am (jah bless the time change and our arrival working in our favour...it felt like we left the party at midnight). I was sore and grungy and covered with a thin mist of rave rain and it was like a benediction. We fell into our usual party rhythms...the Dotytron flitting around, socializing, me eking out a little square of space by the bass bins, throwing elbows to maintain it, reconvening at various points but otherwise, blissfully on our own trajectory, but near enough so that our orbits overlapped. I want to go back. I would go back in a heartbeat.
The next day our big outing was the Harry Potter Studios tour, in Leavesden.
We hit Borough Market again the next day for breakfast which was a duck confit butty.
So, you take a hour-long bus ride to the studio lot. They usher you into a theatre, and they show a video of Emma Watson, Rupert Grint, and Daniel Radcliffe reminiscing about their time on the studios filming the movies. At the end of the movie, the three of them turn away from the audience and open the door to the great hall at Hogwarts, and say something to the effect of: "Follow us now," and then
the screen of the theatre rises up and the doors to the Great Hall at Hogwarts is there and everyone turned to each other and went, "AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!" and people were like, bursting into tears and screaming, and it was truly, truly, the best. So funny and dorky and amazing.
It was a big day for us. For our splashiest meal, I made us a reservation at Fergus Henderson's incredibly influential restaurant, St. John. When he opened the restaurant, he was one of the only people doing nose-to-tail eating and elevating so-called "humble" cuts of meat and returning to classic British cooking. The food was a revelation.
Oat crusted mackerel with bacon and brown butter, potted crab toasts, and the iconic bone marrow dish.
The Dotytron had liver and chard and I had lamb's heart with rutabaga mash. It was heavenly. The heart had a texture like pork cheeks, but slightly more tender, sapid and blood rare in the middle.
The next morning we had breakfast at Modern Pantry, Clerkenwell. I had a pecan frangipane croissant, and a shakshuka type thing. The Dotytron had a benny with a yuzu hollandaise.
We spent our last full day record shopping, regular shopping, and milling around. Pretty lowkey and chill. I had plans to check out a classic Sunday roast dinner, but because the seat of the Empire turns out to be a provincial backwater (is anyone surprised? Not I!), we found that a lot of restaurants right in the core (Picadilly and the like) closed after a lunch service. Da hell? So we wandered around, peckish, Finally, we arrived at a Spanish restaurant with a crowd of people outside, waiting for one of the coveted seats. There was no order to the crowd, so there was the general sense of unease in the air, subtle jockeying for position, mental headcounts of the people in the mass outside cross-referenced with the number of seats inside. The Dotytron and I were the last pair to snag a set of bar stools and felt like we'd won the lottery for it.
Croquetas
Tuna Tartare, which our Run Lola Run server insisted was her favorite dish. It was okay.
Spanish tortilla
Fried baby artichokes with hollandaise
Octopus a la plancha
Fried zucchini blossom served drizzled with honey
Beef cheek stuffed piquillo pepper, fried
Spanish flan and an olive oil cake with some weird trail mix served on the side
Two lovebirds, homeward bound
It was such a good, fun, trip. Although, 2 months later, it seems like a distant memory. I'm hungry to go back.
The thing is: 15-odd years ago, I made a choice to spend my life with this Tally McGoo from my high school. I didn't know what I was choosing at the time. I mean, how could I? I was a half-formed lump of clay. I'm still not even a fully-formed lump of clay. Yet, every day, for the past 15-odd years, I've gotten up and continued to choose this life we've made together. I choose this guy, with his big, pure, open heart and his ability to make me gasp with laughter. I choose his sentimentality and sensitivity and empathy. I choose his silliness and his ability to be a goof around our children and his endless patience as a parent. I choose our ups and downs, I choose our squabbles, I choose our brocking out in a car together, I choose our shorthand and our finishing each other's sentences. 2001 me, goomba that I was, turned out to be pretty smart, guys. I don't know what life is going to throw our way. I don't know what our struggles are going to be. I don't know how low the capriciousness of fate will bring us. The only thing I know is that there is an alchemy between we two. As a team, we are magic.
Fin.